Breakout-clearing, skin tone-evening, fine line-smoothing retinol has long been considered the gold standard in skin care. But bakuchiol benefits are quickly catching up. Over the past few years, bakuchiol has become an increasingly popular ingredient—a gentler retinol alternative with similar advantages and fewer drawbacks.
While retinol—a derivative of vitamin A—has a glowing reputation for its multiple uses, it’s not perfect: Because it encourages cell turnover (shedding your old, dull skin cells to reveal fresh new skin underneath), it can cause skin to become dry, red, and flaky as it adjusts to the ingredient. That means it can be unsuitable for sensitive skin types, even at low concentrations.
If you’re curious about making the switch to bakuchiol (a hero ingredient in our new Milk Makeup Pore Eclipse Mattifying Primer), read on to find out exactly how it works.
What is bakuchiol?Bakuchiol is a chemical compound derived from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant, more commonly known as babchi. Long before the ingredient made its way into mainstream skincare, it was used in herbal preparations in South Asian and Chinese traditional medicines to treat a number of skin-related concerns. “Bakuchiol is a plant-based oil rich in vitamin A that has retinol-like activity on the skin,” says dermatologist Blair Murphy-Rose, M.D. She refers to it as a “retinol mimicker” because it acts on the same receptors as retinol when used topically, and therefore shares the same benefits. “Like retinol, bakuchiol helps to treat and prevent signs of aging by stimulating skin cell turnover, promoting collagen production in the skin, and improving overall skin tone and texture,” explains Dr. Murphy-Rose. “It also has antioxidant properties to fight free radical damage, and antimicrobial properties.” What’s the difference between bakuchiol and retinol?Aside from the fact that bakuchiol is plant-based and retinol is produced synthetically, the key difference between bakuchiol and retinol is what bakuchiol doesn’t do: raise your odds of the sensitivity, flaking, and irritation retinol is famous for. This makes bakuchiol a suitable option for even reactive and sensitive skin. “Studies have shown bakuchiol to have similar efficacy to retinol with reduced irritation,” says Dr. Murphy-Rose. “Unlike retinol, bakuchiol has anti-inflammatory properties, which may contribute to its reduced irritation potential.” |
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Does bakuchiol have any side effects?
Bakuchiol doesn’t have any known side effects or ingredient interactions, but Dr. Murphy-Rose says that it’s best to avoid using it with ingredients that can increase skin sensitivity, particularly if you’ve just started using it. “If you are new to bakuchiol, avoid exfoliants and peels like alpha-hydroxy acids and salicylic acid,” she says.
This doesn’t mean you need to cut exfoliants from your routine entirely. “If you’ve been using retinol or bakuchiol previously without skin irritation and your skin has become accustomed to it, you can try using a combination for enhanced skin benefits as tolerated,” she says. Another option is to use your bakuchiol serums and peels on different days to avoid any risk of irritation.
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Our Best Milk Makeup Products With Bakuchiol
Because it doesn't increase sensitivity to sunlight, you can use bakuchiol in your morning or night skincare routine. For daytime use, there’s no better way to integrate bakuchiol into your regimen than with our best bakuchiol product, Pore Eclipse Mattifying Primer. In addition to mattifying your skin and providing a silky-smooth, long-lasting base for makeup, this lightweight water-cream formula contains bakuchiol to help minimize the look of your pores over time.
“We chose bakuchiol because it’s a plant-derived ingredient that has similar skincare benefits to retinol, but is gentler on the skin,” says Jessica Blanco, our SVP of Product Development and Packaging. “It helps smooth fine lines, even skin tone, and improve skin elasticity.” Just follow your makeup primer with a generous application of SPF before makeup, and marvel at the difference a multitasking product like our Pore Eclipse Mattifying Primer can make.
Meet the Experts
Blair Murphy Rose, M.D., F.A.A.D. (she/her), is a board-certified cosmetic, medical, and surgical dermatologist specializing in leading-edge facial rejuvenation techniques. Her approach blends science and artistry, employing the most advanced technologies and precise techniques.
Jessica Blanco (she/her) is the SVP of Product Development and Packaging at Milk Makeup. In her role, she seeks out the new, useful, and functional to create our revolutionary and highly innovative Milk Makeup products.
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